Fit:

A boot must fit properly.A guide is that the inside of the boot should be about 12mm (0.5in) longer than the foot. Estimate this by wearing the boot with the laces loosened. It should be possible to place a finger down the inside of the boot at the heel. The upper should fit closely and comfortably over the foot. With the boot laced up the heel should not move excessively as you walk so check for heel lift.

Durability:

Little stitching and an upper made from a single piece of 3mm thick high grade leather will be durable. Rubber strips, called rands, round the sides, toe box and heel of boots protect the leather, but should be maintained so water is not trapped in places where it can rot the leather. Use “super glue” to fix a flapping rand.

Outsole:

Chunky lugs will bite into mud and snow. There is a trade off between the level of grip on dry rock and the life of the rubber sole. A sticky rubber sole will not last as long as hard rubber, but if the rubber is too hard then it won’t grip.

Toe Box:

A boot which is too soft around the toes may not give enough protection from stones and will certainly not be suitable for winter conditions. Heel Cup:- Boots should have a firm, well designed, heel cup to locate and to protect the foot.

Support:

A boot should give adequate ankle support and should have sufficient “meat” in the sole so that you can walk over uneven ground without feeling every stone. “If you can walk over a coin and tell if it is heads or tails then the boot will not be suitable for the Great Outdoors”!

Cushioning:

Boots will have a layer of cushioning between the outsole and the upper of the boot. The degree of cushioning required depends upon the weight of the wearer, the weight of any load being carried and the use to which the boot is to be put. Light hiking and trekking with a heavy pack require plenty of cushioning while mountaineers usually prefer a greater feel for what they are standing on and thus less cushioning. The sections making up the sole of the boot must provide adequate insulation if it is to be used in cold conditions.

Waterproofness:

A boot made from a single piece of 3mm thick high quality leather with minimal stitching and adequate maintenance will be sufficiently waterproof for most situations. Boots made from many pieces of leather, fabric or synthetic materials which are covered in stitching may be more likely to leak. A membrane liner will waterproof a boot but may also make the boot “hot”. A boot may appear to leak if water enters via a wet sock or if the inner liner of the boot starts to soak up water. A boot using a membrane may leak if the membrane is punctured by a stone or sharp toe nail.